Our Belize Adventure: Highlights and Tips

When it was time to say ‘adios’ to Mexico, we boarded our Marlin Espadas shuttle, and by ‘shuttle,’ I mean a vintage, slightly rusty van that somehow managed to squeeze give or take about 20 of us, and we rattled towards the Belize border. We were a little jittery about our first Central American border crossing. Apparently, Belizean authorities are big fans of ‘show and tell’ – show your onward ticket, tell them your life story, show them you’re not broke. 

We quickly learned that exiting Mexico can be more challenging than entering Belize. Inside a cramped cubicle, the officer collected our travel cards, flashed a smile, and dropped the bombshell: ‘Now let’s talk about the money.’ He then casually mentioned a $45 per person Mexico travel tax, rubbing his hands together with a gleam in his eye. Thankfully, we’d done our homework (thanks, internet!). So, instead of reaching for my wallet, I whipped out my phone and opened our Delta Airlines receipt. There, in glorious, itemized detail, was the proof: the Mexico travel tax, already paid as part of our airfare. The officer’s smile made a quick disappearing act. 

With our Mexican exit stamps secured (and our wallets still intact), we rejoined our trusty shuttle, which then whisked us to the Belizean side. We’d braced ourselves for a rigorous interrogation, but it turned out to be a pop quiz with only one question: ‘Where are you staying?’ After a quick answer, we were rewarded with a smile, an entry stamp, and the freedom to ‘Belize’ as much as we wanted for up to 90 days. Talk about a pleasant surprise!

SAN PEDRO

Our first stop in Belize was San Pedro! Well, technically it was our second stop as we had a brief layover in Corozal, a small coastal town that served as our transportation hub. We hopped off our shuttle and onto a water taxi, which then zipped us over to Ambergris Caye, home of San Pedro. My first impression of San Pedro? Less ‘tropical paradise,’ more ‘golf cart demolition derby.’ We stepped off the water taxi and into a scene that can only be described as a high-speed, low-emission traffic jam. Imagine trying to cross a busy street, but instead of cars, it’s a herd of golf carts piloted by people who clearly skipped defensive-driving class. We quickly learned that dodging golf carts was a mandatory San Pedro survival skill. 

We heard the ‘Secret Beach’ was the place to be, a mere 45-minute golf cart pilgrimage away. So, naturally, we joined the golf cart army and went to investigate. It turns out that Secret Beach is less of a secret and more of a well-known hangout. The vibe was chill, though, the water was perfect, and we had a blast. 

On the way back from Secret Beach, we made a point to visit the Truck Stop, Belize’s first shipping container food truck park. While we weren’t impressed with the food nor the prices, the place itself was a lot of fun. You can chill by the water (keep an eye out for gators!), play a variety of games, or catch US sports on the big screens. It’s a quirky, fun spot that’s definitely worth a visit, even if you just grab a drink and soak in the vibe.

Where did we stay: Conch Shell Inn (A quaint boutique hotel, simple but perfect with hammocks and lounge chairs looking out at the water. Located right next to some great dining options)

Restaurants we tested:

Estel’s Dine by the Sea (breakfast) – Fell in love with fried jacks here. So delicious. They have outdoor seating with several tables right on the water. 

Charmaine’s Cafe and Dessert Shop (breakfast) – If you want refreshingly cold coffee, this is the place to go. They also serve a good avocado toast and breakfast burritos among other options.

Lavish Habit Cafe (breakfast) – The perfect spot to start your day with a cup of coffee and some breakfast bagels. 

Briana’s Food Place (dinner) – This restaurant is a great choice for those who travel on budget but don’t want to compromise quality. The food was really good and our stew chicken which came with a generous portion of meat. They are cash only. 

Slice of Haven (Truck Stop) – No no no. This is not what a good pizza tastes like. This is not even what an ok pizza tastes like. So far the most disappointing restaurant we ate at on this trip.

Chef Juan’s Kitchen and Pastries (dinner) – It’s a cute little hole-in-the-wall with a few tables. The coconut shrimp curry was on a pricier side but definitely pleased the taste buds.

CAYE CAULKER

After San Pedro’s golf cart frenzy, we headed to Caye Caulker, and it was a complete 180. Their slogan is ‘go slow,’ and they mean it. You simply can’t find a more chill place.

We crammed a lifetime of incredible experiences into just 40 hours on the island. From feeding stingrays to swimming with nurse sharks, spotting a seahorse, admiring tarpons, snorkling tour to see the corals of the second largest barrier reefs in the world, to indulging in amazing food. It was a non-stop adventure. 

Where we stayed: Belize Sea Reef Inn (If you are looking for a basic but affordable room, this is a great place. Our room was clean and comfortable and very close to everything the island has to offer)

Restaurants we tested:

Errolyn’s Home of Jacks (breakfast) – The wait can be long but it’s worth it. Wonderful inexpensive fried jacks.

Street Food (lunch) – as you start heading towards the split, you will see locals grilling variety of foods along the street. We tried their jerk chicken and corn. Such a feast for the taste buds. Reasonably priced as well. 

Chef Juan’s Kitchen and Pastries (dinner) – The coconut Shrimop curry was not cheapest (not super expensive either) but it was so good. One of the best curries I have ever had.

Wish Willy (dinner) – Going to Wish Willy for dinner is a great experience. You never know what’s on the menu because it depends on what is caught that day, meaning you will always get the freshest fish here. Chicken is available if you are not a fan of fish. Grilled Baracuda was served when we visited, and I licked my chops for a long time after we left.

SAN IGNACIO

We arrived in San Ignacio with the famous Actun Tunichil Mucnal (ATM) Cave on our minds, but we quickly discovered that this town is a treasure trove of adventures. Cahal Pech, a Mayan site, is a mere 20-minute (uphill!) walk from town. Xunantunich archeological site is a breeze to reach via quite comfortable, cheap buses departing every 30 minutes from the C.W.C. bus stop. And that’s not all! There are Chocolate classes at AJaw and an Iguana Sanctuary where you can get up close and personal with these robust lizards (touching allowed!). Kayaks can be rented at the waterfront if you want to enjoy time on the river, or you can opt to go tubing through caves (this activity will shake your vallet a little bit more, just as the ATM Cave tour does) 

Where we stayed: D’s Guest House/Hostel (Basic rooms with A/C, older building, but everything was very clean. Kitchen and filtered water was available to us during our stay, Quiet, safe neighborhood within walking distance of everything in town. 

Restaurants we tested:

POP’s (breakfast) – if you like fried dough, try their Chaya Pockets. Pretty much a fried jacks stuffed with scrambled eggs containing chaya leaves (similar to spinach in taste). Loved them so much; we went there twice. They also make great breakfast burritos, and their prices are very fair.

Marta’s Kitchen (breakfast) – Their Stuffed Jack was to die for. The dough reminded me of an elephant’s ear. So delicious.

Erva’s (dinner) – While the food tasted really good, the portions were on the small size, especially the chicken.

Ko-Ox Han-Nah (dinner) – tried Breadfruit Curry here, it was delicious and Dave’s Stew Chicken was really good too and unlike at Erva’s it came with a very nice piece of meat.

The Guava Limb Cafe (dinner) – upscale dining experience, but prices were quite reasonable. Recommend making a reservation here. They were able to squeeze us in, but most tables were reserved during the dinner hours.

Cenaida’s Belizean Food (dinner) – You have to try this place. It was the best food we had in San Ignacio. The choices were quite unique. We especially liked the Citrus Chicken and the Coconut Chicken, but you can’t go wrong with any of their dishes.